It feels like forever since I last posted a recipe. Moving has been overwhelming and stressful and fun and I love my new home beyond words. We're still getting settled, but most boxes are now unpacked. We have a sofa, a dining table, mattresses on the floor, but the kitchen is fully functional and I have already hosted my first guests here.
I thought it would be harder to say goodbye than it turned out. But I know that the knew owners are already head over heels in love with our old home, so that in a way makes me feel better about having passed it on. And I am crazy over the moon about this new home with all the memories I get to create here.
The recipe I am posting today is actually the last I made in my old kitchen. It felt fitting to do something that was a sort of journey on a plate. Before diving into the world of sugar, butter and flour I cooked and wrote about mostly spicy food. I researched and made my own versions of classic Asian, Middle Eastern, Latin American and African dishes with an abundance of spices, herbs and aromatics. It very much influences my way of cooking still.
And I recently worked in the worlds best ice cream parlour, Østerberg Ice Cream. It is a truly magical place where Catherine Østerberg turns exotic and nordic fruits and quality ingredients into ice creams worth standing in line for. I should now, I was a regular before I made her hire me. And she is an adventurer with flavour, like me. She was and is an inspiration.
So I wanted to incorporate spices, ice cream and something from this new pastry cookery. Sabayon. Man what a great thing that is. Silky smooth, rich without being cloying and on top of the warm cobbler it melted together with the ice cream and made this insane hot and cold custard hybrid that balanced the spicy cookie lid and offset the sweet fruits. Oh man.
The idea for the spice blend used here came from the Ethiopian niter kibbeh, spiced clarified butter. I love fenugreek in savoury applications, but thought it would be fun to let the slightly bittersweet coffee/cocoa/burnt sugar/maple syrup flavour shine in a dessert.
If you don't have an ice cream machine, this is actually one of those ice cream recipes that are perfectly doable without. In fact, this one I did just using a freezer and a hand-held mixer. The ice cream turned out perfect anyway. Just beat it thoroughly, but quickly every 30 minutes until it is set. That way you still get air into the ice cream, break up the ice crystals and get perfectly smooth ice cream in return. Simple as that.
Ethiopian spiced cookie cobbler with dulcey ice cream and ginger sabayon
Dulcey ice cream
5 egg yolks
60g granulated sugar
40g glucose syrup
650g whole milk
50g heavy cream
140g Valrhona Dulcey or other caramelized white chocolate, finely chopped
Pinch of salt
Mix glucose syrup, milk and cream together with the salt in a pot over medium heat and bring up to 75C, stirring every so often. Meanwhile whisk egg yolks and sugar until very light and pale.
Slowly pour the mix over the egg mixture while stirring. Return to the pot and heat to 70C/160F. Add the chopped chocolate to a heatproof bowl and pour the ice cream mix over the chocolate. Use a stick blender to emulsify before passing through a fine meshed sieve. Transfer the ice cream mix to the refrigerator and allow to cool and age overnight.
Churn according to the instruction for your ice cream maker, and then freeze for an additional couple of hours in the freezer.
Ethiopian spiced cookie cobbler with apple and pear
280g dark brown sugar
100g unsalted butter at room temperature
1 large egg, beaten
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
½ tsp. ground cardamom
1 tsp. ground fenugreek
¼ tsp. ground clove
½ tsp. salt
2 tsp. fresh grated ginger
2 pears, peeled, cored and cut in 2,5cm/1” dice
2 apples, peeled, cored and cut in 2,5cm/1” dice
75g granulated sugar
1½ tbsp. dark rum
Whisk together flour, salt and spices and set aside.
Beat butter and sugar until fluffy with a stand mixer or hand-held. Then add first egg and ginger before adding the flour. Mix until fully incorporated. Wrap the cookie dough in cling film and chill for at least an hour.
Preheat the oven to 180C/360F. Mix the diced fruit with sugar and rum and either divide between four ramekins or add to one large. On a lightly flour piece of parchment roll out the cookie dough into a disk the size of your ramekin or ramekins. Invert the parchment on top of the ramekin/ramekins and remove the paper. Press gently against the edges of the ramekin to seal in the fruit.
Bake in the center rack of the oven for 12-18 minutes for individual, 20-25 minutes for one large, or until the cookie lid is brown and the fruit is cooked.
Cool lightly and just before serving prepare the sabayon.
Ginger rum sabayon
4 egg yolks
45g granulated sugar
1½dl vin santo
½-1 Tbsp. ginger juice
Whisk together vin santo, sugar, rum and ginger juice in a large heatproof bowl, then whisk in the egg yolks.
Place the bowl over a pot of simmering water and whisk until the mix becomes frothy and thickens.
The sabayon is ready when it holds its shape when you drop a dollop back into the bowl.
Spoon over the cookie cobblers and serve with dulcey ice cream